Porto, Portugal

 Porto, Portugal

Luis I Bridge a great place to have a cocktail and watch the boats go by!

My husband and I visited Porto the first time on a loop tour that took us from Madrid to Sevilla, Spain, and then driving the whole coast of Portugal to Santiago de Compostela continuing the drive along the northern Spain coast ending in Barcelona. On our next trip we returned to Porto and began our Camino Portuguese, a walk from Porto to Santiago de Compostela.  We are in love with PORTO.

The first thing you will notice about Porto is the tile, it decorates everything.                        It is mostly blue tile- but we did see more modern buildings with other colors.

even some yellow tiles

Honestly the best thing to do is just wander around Porto's winding back streets making your own discoveries of cool little restaurants and local shops. If you think you are lost, just keep heading downward to the river and then find the main road back up, and up and up.

  

If you don't have time to wander aimlessly, then here are suggestions of fun things to do in Porto. 

Walk down to the river, take the backstreets. Along the river there are bars and restaurants. I would suggest just a coffee or a cocktail along the river, because there are far better food choices up the hill. People watching and seeing the iconic Luis I Bridge up close is a treat.  

there is a staircase going up and down- test your fitness level

I liked going down to river using the back alleys 

or you can pay about 4 euro to take the funicular back up (there was a small line when we were there, so we took it up- but even this small line moved slowly.)  Walking up is quicker.

My advice is to wander up (and up and up) the back streets that snake slowly up the hill. These back streets are located on the ocean side of the Luis I bridge.

But while you are down on the river, cross the bridge and do a port wine tasting at any of the port wine tasting rooms. We picked Calem. 

Painel de Azulejos Ribeira Negra- Coming back from the port wine tasting room, go over the bridge and bear left, have a look at this beautiful work of art that stretches a roadway. It dates to 1984 by Julio Resende. It is right before a tunnel (google map it)

Mercado do Bolhao- opened in 1914, it just recently underwent renovations. It is open everyday but Sunday 8am- 8pm. Snacks, flowers food, handmade items- really fun.

Porto Cathedral- ground breaking in 1110 , year  completed 1737. Small fee to see inside.

If you are walking the Camino to Santiago de Compostela you can get your pilgrim passport (your first stamp) and shell at this Cathedral. The views from the main plaza are incredible

very ornate

the spectacular view

If you are starting your Camino at the Cathedral- it is 248 km to Santiago de Compostela

Our shells and Pilgrims passports

Livraria Lello- a Harry Potter like bookstore that has grown in such popularity that you need to buy timed tickets in order to enter.  I was on that side of town, and the line wasn't bad, so I went online and got the tickets. The place was CROWDED, they let way too many people in at one time.  Anyway, I got to stand on the famous staircase and it was gorgeous!

And look up at the stained glass ceiling.

This photo was found on their website

This is my  photo I cropped- you can still kind of see  all the heads at the bottom of the pic.

Mural Vhils- street art.  This was really a fun walk.  We spent some time strolling along the Douro river at river level. We wandered up and down the streets looking at the art. We stopped in a cafe for a beer, and then we spotted an ESCALATOR...so we took it up- it was actually 2 different escalators (both free), which took us from river level  to about halfway to the Crystal Palace gardens that we wanted to visit next. It was a crazy helpful find.

This mural resembles my grandmother

I love a good back alley

1 of 2 escalators going UP in a residential area

 Jardins do Palacio de Cristal- this was a delightful and unexpectedly beautiful park.  The overlook above the Douro and the gardens made for a really nice stroll.

manicured and free form gardens throughout the park

and tons of posing peacocks

view from the edge of the park

If you have extra time in Porto consider taking a wine tour.  We chose an all day tour that picked us up at the hotel, brought us to a winery. Then we had a boat ride, then stopped for lunch and lastly a stop at a second winery.  It was a great day to do this because it was off and on rain all day. The Douro Valley was beautiful and the wine delicious.

the terracing done to plant the vineyards

The boat ride with history lessons

first winery

2nd winery

Clerigos Church and Tower-  During the day you can climb the tower but at night there is a really cool laser show inside this church that dates to 1732.  The money raised by these light shows goes to the preservation of the church.  It was really a good show!  If you go online you can see videos of this Spiritus show. 

 Hint: get there early to sit in the back ,so your neck doesn't hurt from looking up!

The beauty of Porto is found all around.  The small details, the wonderfully friendly shop keepers  (the Portuguese people are the best!!!) make this city a worldwide treasure.

This owner stayed late and sat and had a drink with us.

coat of arms- guess they played dominoes and cut people's tongues out??

holy water font

mosaic made from wine corks

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There are places that we didn't see that are on my list for next time- some were under construction, so the areas were closed, other places we just didn't have time for:

Ribeira Square

Mosteiro da Serra do Pilar

Igrega do Carmo

Igrega de Santa Clara

Chapel of Souls

Monument Church of St Francis

Bolsa Palace

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Good- bye Porto until we meet again!

Rome- a fabulous city

 Rome

I have been to Rome many times, and each time I uncover a bit more beauty. I tell my friends traveling to Rome for the first time, to spend a minimum of 3-4 nights, to see the traditional "must see" sights.  My dream is to rent an apartment in Rome for a month to feel more of the Italian love.

Must see sights:

The Colosseum:  You need advance, time specific tickets. You can buy them from the COOPCULTURE website. They open ticket sales 30 days in advance- tickets can sell out in MINUTES- so set your alarm for Italy time! ...this is why many people choose a third party broker, such as Viator.  If you choose to buy tickets from a third party broker, it is my advice that you use the "pay in advance option". Due to crowds many reservations for the Colosseum were canceled this summer for people who did not pay in advance.

The Forum is right outside the Colosseum.  I advise that you buy a combo ticket for the Colosseum/Forum. There aren't too many informational signs inside the Forum.  There are walking tours available on your phone you can listen to, or download a guidebook for your phone.  It is really interesting wandering around the Forum looking at all the ruins.

St. Peter's Basilica:  You can take the metro or a taxi out to Vatican City. My advice is to go really early or really late- it is open 7am to 7pm. There is a line for security- WARNING: you will have people stating that "you can skip the line if you hire them as your guide"- this is not true- everyone waits to go through security. It is worth the wait. You will spend an hour or two inside the Basilica at least.(make sure you notice the Swiss Guards outside and remember that Vatican City is its own country!) If you are physically fit you need to make the tower climb- the view from the top is great. Suggestion: Buy Rick Steves' "Rome" guide book.  It has a great St. Peter's guide in it. Or  you can hire a tour guide ahead of time.  I like hiring private guides (GET YOUR GUIDE website), you get a lot out of it- and if there are a bunch in your group the cost isn't too bad.

all the Saint statues on the roof guarding the piazza
you can see the people lined up waiting to go through security

My favorite altar

view from the top

The Vatican Museum and Sistine Chapel-  please be sure to get your Vatican museum tickets (time sensitive) in advance. The line with no tickets can be 3 hours long. Many people have opted for breakfast and a tour through Viator and have been satisfied. I have only wandered through the museum. I went online and got a map of the museum and picked a few things I wanted to see. It is a HUGE museum. Honestly you would need several days to do it. Again- get a guide, an audio guide or a Rick Steves' book to go through this museum.   FYI- the museum's exit is into The Sistine Chapel.  You can't see the Sistine Chapel without going through the Vatican Museum.  FYI number 2- the Vatican museum is around a very long block from St Peter's Basilica, so wear comfy shoes and be ready to walk tons of steps that day.

the courtyard of the Vatican Museum

pope mobiles through the centuries- horse and carriage

Hall of maps that leads into the Sistine Chapel

part of the Sistine Chapel- they really don't want you to take photos
that is why this one is blurry-lol

Piazza Navona: My favorite Piazza because of the fountain. This picture doesn't do it justice. This fountain is huge. It is Bernini's Fountain of Four Rivers- the Danube, the Ganges, the Nile and the Plate rivers. There are two other fountains in this Piazza. The piazza used to be used as a horse racetrack many centuries ago.

The Pantheon: Please realize the true architectural genius when you stand inside the Pantheon and stare up at the oculus. The roofline defies gravity. - no steel trusses here!         I have been lucky enough on my trips to Rome to be inside the Pantheon in the sunshine, the rain and near evening.  It always dazzles. When it rains, yes water comes through the oculus. It is free to get inside, but may soon require a reservation due to its popularity- so go online and research this.

the Pantheon is right around the corner from Piazza Navona described above

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva- another church with a fairly drab exterior. But the interior makes up for it. Plus it houses the body of St. Catherine (her head and finger are in the town of Siena, Italy- read about reliquaries before visiting Italy- they are found everywhere and are very interesting- the more reliquaries- the more prestigious your church.). This church is between the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, it also has an obelisk out front- read below about obelisks!

Trevi Fountain:  Of course you need to go here, face away from the fountain and throw a coin over your left shoulder to guarantee that you will return to Rome. I like visiting at night when it is lit up. Go after a late dinner.  at 7:00pm it is really busy.

The Spanish Steps:  Going and sitting on The Spanish steps and people watching are what everyone does here. There are restaurants and cafes nearby to sit, people watch and have a glass of wine too.

Victor Emmanuel Monument:- you don't have to go inside, but as you pass by this monument, I want you to know that the Roman Citizens called it "The Birthday Cake" when it was completed. I see their point, it does look like it has birthday candles!

Below are some additional places to visit.  Most people will see these things on their second, third or fourth visit (I guess they keep tossing coins in at Trevi Fountain) But if any of these appeal to you, by all means, go see them on visit number one!

Borghese Gallery:  This Gallery is full of beautifully carves stone statues. There is a gorgeous garden surrounding the gallery.  The garden is free but the Gallery is a timed, dated ticket that must be bought FAR in advance.

 

13  Obelisks of Rome- there are 13 Obelisks in Rome, if you find them all you will have seen some of the best neighborhoods and piazzas in Rome. The website Italyperfect(dot)com has great info and maps of these obelisks.

Here is one of the Obelisks

Electric Bike Tour of the Appian Way, Aqueducts and Catacombs: My friends and I really enjoyed this bike trip with Topbike rentals. We took the guided tour.

Castel Sant' Angelo- (aka Hadrian's Castle) This was a neat building to pass by while walking along the Tibur River.  I have not been inside, because so many descriptions have said there is nothing inside except windows with great views.

Trastevere neighborhood- I suggest this neighborhood if you go in the late spring and early summer.  The flowery window boxes are supposed to be stunning.  I have only been in winter, and fall and early spring, so unfortunately I missed all the beauty and outside cafes.

The Jewish Quarter- I have not been to this Quarter- but it is on my list for next time

San Pietro in Vincoli Basilica - this small unassuming  church, with a super plain exterior, has the chains that bound St. Peter.  It also houses a gorgeous statue of Moses carved by Michelangelo.  

St. Peter's Chains

Santa Maria Maggiore Basilica- this church is gorgeous inside, especially when I got to see it at Christmas.  But even without holiday decorations, it is worth a stop to see the interior stonework.

Take a day trip out to:

Tivoli- about 45 minutes by train- go see the gardens and estates.  This is a full day trip for most people, but some people only visit 1 estate and head back to Rome.

Castel Gandolfo- about an hour by train out of town, this used to be the summer home of the Pope.  This can be done in half a day

   

Orvieto- the easiest to get to Tuscan town- 1 hour by train from Rome.  This charming hilltop village has great little restaurants, a beautiful church and a Unesco Heritage site,  San Patrizio's well. This would be a full day trip.

San Patrizio's well

OTHER HINTS- many people are opting to book a  2 hour golf cart tour of Rome. I think that is an excellent idea to get the full scope of Rome.   I also suggest getting a map called STREETWISE- Rome (available on Amazon)- this map is small and laminated. I circle my hotel and all the places I want to see, so I can make the most of my day without doubling back. It also has a metro map on it. I know you have a phone, but for planning and in case your phone doesn't work, this map is really worth $10

Other things to note: When flying into Rome I like to pre-arrange and pre-pay a car service that will take me directly to my hotel. When I come out of baggage claim area, the driver is there waiting with my name on a sign. It will cost about $15-20 euro more than a taxi, but it is nice not to have to worried about being scammed by a taxi driver. (most are honest and will turn on their meter- or will abide by the set taxi fee of $60 euro for 2 people.It is a 40 minute drive into the city.If you have a larger group and need a van- the price is about $80 for a private ride. The other reason I like to pre-pay my ride is so I can wait to get euros out using my debit card at a BANK AFFILIATED ATM. Try not to use an non- bank affiliated ATM, their fees can be really high. AND don't forget to notify your bank and credit card companies that you are traveling. Check with your bank on your daily debit limit. I usually draw out $200 euro at a time, but I use my credit card that has NO INTERNATIONAL TRANSACTION FEES for just about everything. The $200 euro is used for small tips for excellent service, bottles of water, snacks and of course gelato.